That’s why it has a five-day power reserve, ensured by the use of a twin barrel. When the Oris engineers designed the Caliber 400, they thought of an automatic movement that could work even if the watch remains unworn for some time.
The Caliber 400, which gives the watch its name, is one of Oris’ workhorses and is characterized by four pillars: twin barrel, rotor system stability, elevated resistance to magnetic fields, class-leading reliability. Speaking of performance, let’s get to the movement. We are used to considering aviator’s watches as the triumph of steel (and of soft iron for the inner case, to shield the harmful effects of magnetic fields), but in the Big Crown ProPilot X Caliber 115 Oris had already used the titanium to create a light, performing watch with muscular lines and a seductive skeletonization. TITANIUM POWERĪnd since we talked about the case and the middle case, well defined by the shapes of the solid crown protectors, here’s another significant feature that makes this watch an aviator, the material: the case and integrated bracelet are in titanium, widely used in the aerospace industry. The oversized crown, flanked by sturdy protectors, however, is there to remind us that the ProPilot X Caliber 400 looks good in the sky. The case goes from the classic 44 mm to 39 mm, a size that makes the watch a little less tool watch than the other ProPilots, but which makes it more comfortable even on slender wrists. The date at 6 o’clock breaks with the tradition of the ProPilot collection, in which it is located at 3 o’clock. There is blue, but flanked by a nice smoky gray shade and a breathtaking salmon hue. If an aviator’s watch is synonymous with a black, or at most midnight blue, dial, here we are far beyond.
The numerals are replaced by baton indexes, generously covered with Super-LumiNova just like the hour and minute hands (also a reference, in the design, to the ProPilot collection). Where are the highly legible Arabic numerals on the dial? Where are the generous dimensions of the case, typical of aviator’s watches, which aim to widen the dial as much as possible to ensure maximum clarity of information? None of that is found in this surprising Oris timepiece. Were it not for the design of the bezel, the aesthetic signature of the ProPilot collection, and for the bracelet that recalls that of the Big Crown ProPilot X Caliber 115, this Oris could almost look like a dress watch. Raise your hand, or rather, your wrist, if you think you are facing an aviator’s watch when looking at the ProPilot X Caliber 400. A watch that breaks the molds that the brand got us used to. This drive for experimentation led to the creation of the ProPilot X line, which after the launch of the Big Crown ProPilot X Caliber 115, in September 2019, is now enriched with the new ProPilot X Caliber 400. With this collection Oris loves to experiment, without however deviating from its historical essence. In almost 120 years of life, the manufacture has created collections that firmly became part of the most famous and exclusive ones in fine watchmaking, as evidenced by the ProPilot collection. Oris’ substance is that of a brand with a strong vocation for innovation since its foundation, by Paul and Georges Christian, in 1904. German Romantic poet Friedrich Schiller wrote that “ everyone judges according to appearance, none according to substance.” Did Oris have this in mind when designing the new ProPilot X Caliber 400? This watch from the Hölstein brand is made to be judged according to its substance.
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